Fragrance Family: Fougere
Scent Categories: Herbaceous, Woody, Balsamic, Citrusy
Green, green, and more green! Nephrite Elixir is but a forest of jade bottled. This composition has taken a number of incarnations over the years. Namely, Black Monsoon and Dusk & Musk (both before the advent of AE mind you). With each new avatar the woodlands housed within became more and more illuminated by dawn’s morning light.
Cresting over a canopy of foliage the topnotes burst forth with a bushel of bristling citruses, honey and terpenic frankincense that emanates a pollen-like texture wafting above the treeline. Among the citruses lime takes center stage for its green character while tangerine adds juiciness and a rare yuzu absolute lends a slight acidic bitterness. For the honey I sourced a local absolute from Washington state that showcases a powdery floral profile as if the bees soley pollinated garden flowers. The Somalian frankincense is robust and rounded in body with both piney incense notes rich in alpha and beta pinene as well as hints of mandarin, both fruit and peel. I then sprinkled a touch of tulsi for a subtle herbal tonality but also for its spiritual presence, hence its common name holy basil.
The crown quickly gives way to a bright and juicy heart centered around osmanthus absolute, one of my favourite florals. This petite and honeyed tea-like flower does wonders when paired with lime blossom, honeybush and green tea thus forming a golden green accord of sunlight that then contrasts the deep dark thicket of basenotes. Further accentuating the yellow-green hues are a lush vegetal orris butter and some civet paste I tinctured myself, but just a touch to impart an almost imperceptible waxy animalism.
I’m now reminded of the Japanese word “Komorebi”, which succinctly describes light filtering through leaves. For we’ve made it from the verdant boughs quivering in the breeze and find ourselves amongst the pine needles, sap, mushrooms, and moss that blanket the forest floor. Here amongst thick centennial trees the musk deer roams, enticing us with its pheromonal scent trail. Here we can let the roots of fir and tolu grow over us as we become one with Nature. Or rather, we can remember that we were never truly apart in the first place…
Crown
Lime, Tangerine, Yuzu, Honey, Frankincense, Holy Basil
Heart
Poplar Bud, Black Currant Bud, Patchouli, Osmanthus, Linden Blossom, Honeybush, Green Tea, Orris, Civet
Base
French Pine, Fir Balsam, Balsam Tolu, Labdanum, Mushroom, Cedarmoss, Oakmoss, Siberian Deer Musk, White Ambergris